The History of Huber's

Huber's was established in 1879 at the corner of First and Morrison (16 Morrison) as the Bureau Saloon. Its first proprietor was W.L. Lightner. In 1884 destiny played its hand with the hiring of Frank R. Huber as bartender. Mr. Huber, a man of impeccable attire, had tended bar in Portland for several years and had aspirations of someday owning his own saloon. In 1887 Frank Huber became a partner with W.L. Lightner at the Bureau and the following year became the sole proprietor.

Another milestone for the saloon was the hiring of an Oriental immigrant, Jim Louie, as chef. Jim had left his home in Canton, China at age 11 and, after a rough voyage in a windjammer as a stowaway, landed in the booming little city of Portland in 1881. He was initiated into the culinary art by a French woman in a bakery, then later worked at the old Peerless Saloon on Alder Street before being pirated in 1891 by Frank Huber to work at the Bureau. Jim's dedication to his work and his boundless energy are exemplified in a story about Jim that took place during the flood of 1894. With the saloon flooded with water, Jim was behind the lunch counter in a rowboat serving steamed clams and turkey sandwiches to customers who rowed in on the other side.

In 1895, the saloon was moved to 281 Washington and the name was changed to Huber's. With ceremonious Frank Huber behind the bar deftly stirring drinks, one in each hand; and equally ceremonious Jim Louie serving thin-sliced turkey sandwiches and creamy coleslaw behind the free lunch counter, Huber's became the favorite of the downtown businessman.

Huber's moved to its present location, then called the Railway Exchange Building, in 1911. The following year Frank Huber died suddenly and Jim became the manager for Mrs. Huber. Although Jim still cooked turkeys, a boy carved the turkeys and made the sandwiches, and Jim took the place of honor behind the bar serving cocktails with the same dignity and graciousness as Frank Huber.

With the coming of the Prohibition Era in 1920, Mrs. Huber and Jim had plans to close the famous old bar. But at the urging of Huber's many partrons, Jim decided to convert the saloon into a restaurant. With forty dollars capital and the best wishes of his following, Jim purchased tables and chairs from Power's Furniture. Additional kitchen equipment also had to be purchased to accomodate the new expanded menu. Because Huber's had become renowned for its roast turkey, baked ham, and coleslaw, they remained as the house specialties. But the menu now included steaks, veal, lamb chops, pork chops, and a variety of seafoods. And although Huber's was now primarily a restaurant, it was also a speakeasy. Manhattans were served in coffee cups.

The restaurant flourished under Jim's management and culinary expertise. With an entirely Oriental staff, Huber's again became the place to have lunch in downtown Portland. In 1939, Jim gained national recognition in a full-page article with picture in Collier's magazine.

In 1940, Mrs. Huber passed on, and Jim Louie and John Huber, Mrs. Huber's son, formed a partnership. Jim lived six more years. In 1946, Jim Louie died at the restaurant after working his usual day down at Huber's. Jim willed half of the business to his nephew Andrew, who had worked intermittently at Huber's since his high school days. In 1952, Andrew bought out John Huber and beecame the sole proprietor.

In 1979, Huber's celebrated its 100th anniversary of continuous operation. During this year, Huber's was also designated a historic landmark on the local level as well as on the national level with the National Registry of Historic Places. The arched stained-glass skylight, the solid Philippine mahogany paneling, and the terraczo floor are original fixtures from 1911. So are the brass cash register behind the bar, the brass ship's clock above the door, as well as the pewter wine bucket and its silver wine stand.